MOTORBIKING IN HIMALAYAS
Preparations are must for a trip in a terrain as rugged as Himalayas. As the famous saying goes, 'Do not be a Gama in the land of Lama', it is a must that you prepare yourself well whether you are going for a pleasure trip or a four wheeler or a bike ride. Health, weather, terrain, machine, comfort-- are few of the issues that need to be considered while getting ready for a journey to this high altitude area. Mind you, mental preparations are as important as material ones and at the end of the day, one does realise that many a time it was due to a robust mind rather than a robust bike that one has been able to get out of a tricky situation or been able to DO IT !!! This blog addresses issues related to motorcyclists in high altitude areas (9000 ft and above).
Before I highlight the points, we would share our own experiences of the first ride that we undertook in Aug-Sep 2008. We were a group of ten on nine bikes and the group included a lone lady, my wife. Details of that ride are available at http://ajay-raina.blogspot.com/ . Here, I would share preparatory part and relevant issues. Being faujis, we went around planning our trip in great details. After all, all of us were the first timers to Ladakh, let alone on bikes. Over a period of four months, we planned our route, changed, modified and finalised it a number of times before doing the exercise yet again. The route has a big impact on the material needed to be carried, for the obvious reasons. This was more of a logical progression. Having decided on the route, we researched the travel time to distance relationships and the facilities both comfort and machine related. Availability of hotels and staying options can only be viewed in light of the time-distance relationship. After all, even if hotels are available every 50 km, it is important to be sure about the ability to reach next niche after having left the previous one. Mere 50 km will give us a wrong signal. It is must that we know and understand the implications of doing these 50km in two or three or four hours. Having done the exercise for every leg of the journey, we then catered for the emergencies that can crop up. For such foreseeable but equally uncertain situations, one has no option but to carry some reserves on the bike itself. And of course, all of us tried to get trained on basic repair methodology of our machines. The sum total of this exercise resulted into all of us carrying adequate cash (ATMs are not available everywhere) to buy food and comfort, medicines as well as lubricants and spares for emergencies, snacks and beverages for breaks that would be taken at some places away from restaurants and of course tents and sleeping bags since our route was to pass through certain areas that lack basic amenities. Reserve gas was taken only for specific stretches and empty containers were carried elsewhere.
As a result, our bikes became a bit heavy in all the cases. After all, there is a need to carry personal hygiene and dresses too. To reduce the load, we distributed heavier and common items amongst ourselves instead of carrying per person, eg, only one common foot pump was carried for all and so were a few other items. Mind you, we had no back up vehicle trailing us. At the end of the journey, however, we realised that many of the items were not required to be carried because of availability of the same all along the route. Eatables, eg, are available in abundance all along the route. I do not remember any stretch more than 30-40 kms that did not have a motel or shack or kiosk under a parachute selling such articles. Medicines in limited quantities proved to be ok but the excess remained useless. The spares are required though in our case, many of these remained unutilised. Sleeping bags were used on few occasions while the tents were used only once. Being from Army, we did get local support from our camps here and there but for any other biker following the route that we had followed, these items are the must. If route is more usual and regulation Manali-Leh-Manali/Srinagar, these items are not at all required. As a safety precaution, however, a light but good quality sleeping bag will be adequate for emergencies.
The list of items that could be carried is being given below. Many of these items may not be required at all by many bikers esp those who would confine themselves to the highways; many would be partially required and many may suffice if carried one per group rather than one per person. As said earlier, choice and selection of these articles will depend upon the route being taken and travel plan or itinerary being planned. Weather in mountains remains unpredictable and as such, driving window opens only for four odd months. So, it may be worthwhile not to take chances with the weather and go prepared for the worse. What, however, would generally be known is the amount of snow on peaks and depth of water flowing on the roads. As a guideline, June has more snow and, thus, more water and September has least of both. But then water level in streams during June is OK during early mornings and high in the later part of the day and in September, the levels remain more or less same throughout the day. Remember, Mansoon hits different stretches differently and too narrow a prediction can go wrong here.
Plan to share the load. 185 Kgs will be ok for a 350cc bike. Plan to replenish rather than carry everything ab-initio. An exhaustive list is as under for you to pick and choose from:-
BIKE PREPARATIONS
A good and reliable mechanic must check/adjust/fit the following items at least a couple of weeks before the D Day (Do not leave these things till the very end. You need to test the efficacy of the work before taking off):-
* Tyres - treads, rim balance, wheel bearings.
* Shock absorbers and bushes.
* Rear swung arm bush.
* Chain and rear sprockets. At least five notches must be available for adjustment.
* Drag in the clutch.
* Chain adjuster of primary chain.
* Battery and earthing connections.
* Ball race joints.
* Rubber components.
* Nuts, bolts and cables.
* Bikes with 12V battery can be fitted with a cigarette lighter socket that acts like a charger
(use own discretion).
* Tyres - treads, rim balance, wheel bearings.
* Shock absorbers and bushes.
* Rear swung arm bush.
* Chain and rear sprockets. At least five notches must be available for adjustment.
* Drag in the clutch.
* Chain adjuster of primary chain.
* Battery and earthing connections.
* Ball race joints.
* Rubber components.
* Nuts, bolts and cables.
* Bikes with 12V battery can be fitted with a cigarette lighter socket that acts like a charger
(use own discretion).
ITEMS TO BE CARRIED
(Pick and Choose)
(Pick and Choose)
* Bike Related:-
-Papers ie RC, PUC, Insurance, Driving License.
-A card containing details of family/friends in wallet.
-Papers ie RC, PUC, Insurance, Driving License.
-A card containing details of family/friends in wallet.
-Spares - Headlight lamps, brake, accelerator and clutch cables, spark plugs, chain linkages,
clutch plates, puncture kit, insulation tape, tube and fuzes.
- Tools plus some additional items like a bunch of L keys, spanners, binding wire and cutting
pliers.
- Four empty 2 ltrs coke/pepsi bottles for carrying spare fuel if saddle bags are being used; or
else, carry two five ltrs cans if penniers have been fitted. Study your route well and do some
research on internet to work out actual fuel requirements. Plan on 75% fuel efficiency of the
bike in high altitude.
* Hobby/Travel/Record Related:-
- Camera and or movie camera with charger.
- GPS.
- Note book and pen.
- Cellphone and charger.
-Road map.
* Comfort and Stay Related:-
-Insulated flask.
- Hot water bottle.
-Swiss Knife.
-Waterproof zip lock pouches- two to three.
* Riding Gear:-
-Helmet with clear visor and preferably full mask.
- Googles.
- Jackets with weather protection... removable inner and water resistant outer.
- Toughened gloves or else two layers of gloves.
- Comfortable lower- track pants or loose fitting trousers.
-Ankle high boots. Gum boots are ok for water crossings but painful otherwise. A spare
sandal to cross water bodies would help. Never attempt it bare-footed.
- Socks, vests as per assessed requirement.
-Waist pouch.
- Waist belt for comfort, essential for the riders with back problems.
- Knee and elbow guards.
- Saddle bags/ panniers.
- Tank bag.
-Bungee cords.
- Duplicate keys (around the neck).
- Cable/ chain with lock.
-
*Personal Clothing and Hygiene Related:-
-Thermal inners.
-Balacalava/ high neck scarf.
-Toilet kit (toothpaste,brush, soap,shampoo,Sun lotion SPF 50+,shaving foam,razor,detergent,
odomos, lip salve- all in small disposable pouches/satches).
-Underwears.
-Street wear incl woollens.
- Towels.
- Head scarf and handkerchiefs.
- Roll on stick/ deo spray.
- Cold cream.
*Camping and Survival Related:-
- High altitude dome/pup tents one per two/three riders. Do not carry cheap variety stuff as
it would be useless.
-Good quality sleeping bag.
-Mini stove that burns camphor.
-Messtin and steel mug with spoon.
*Food and Hydration Related:-
-Maggi atta noodles.
-Chikki, preferable honey laced.
-Ready to cook meals at least for two meals.
-Dates, dry fruits and nuts.
-Chocolates.
-Vegit Aloo mash powder.
-Milk powder.
- Tea bags/ coffee pouches.
- Water Haversack.
-Water purification tablets.
* First Aid and Medical Related:-
- Diamox (Acetazolamide)- helps in acclimatization. Start five to six days before D Day.
-Nasal decongestant.
-Avomine for dizziness, vomiting and motion sickness.
-Digene, eno and Rentadine for gastro issues.
-Eyes and ear drops.
-Crepe bandage.
- Surgical cotton and bandage gauze.
-Band aid.
-Burnol.
- Crocin/paracetamol.
- Vicks/strepsils.
-Coldact/Vicks 500.
- Betadine liquid.
-Candid B for anti fungal, anti bacterial and rahes.
- Muscle relaxant like relispray and alike.
ROUGH GUIDELINES : PLANNING THE RIDE
clutch plates, puncture kit, insulation tape, tube and fuzes.
- Tools plus some additional items like a bunch of L keys, spanners, binding wire and cutting
pliers.
- Four empty 2 ltrs coke/pepsi bottles for carrying spare fuel if saddle bags are being used; or
else, carry two five ltrs cans if penniers have been fitted. Study your route well and do some
research on internet to work out actual fuel requirements. Plan on 75% fuel efficiency of the
bike in high altitude.
* Hobby/Travel/Record Related:-
- Camera and or movie camera with charger.
- GPS.
- Note book and pen.
- Cellphone and charger.
-Road map.
* Comfort and Stay Related:-
-Insulated flask.
- Hot water bottle.
-Swiss Knife.
-Waterproof zip lock pouches- two to three.
* Riding Gear:-
-Helmet with clear visor and preferably full mask.
- Googles.
- Jackets with weather protection... removable inner and water resistant outer.
- Toughened gloves or else two layers of gloves.
- Comfortable lower- track pants or loose fitting trousers.
-Ankle high boots. Gum boots are ok for water crossings but painful otherwise. A spare
sandal to cross water bodies would help. Never attempt it bare-footed.
- Socks, vests as per assessed requirement.
-Waist pouch.
- Waist belt for comfort, essential for the riders with back problems.
- Knee and elbow guards.
- Saddle bags/ panniers.
- Tank bag.
-Bungee cords.
- Duplicate keys (around the neck).
- Cable/ chain with lock.
-
*Personal Clothing and Hygiene Related:-
-Thermal inners.
-Balacalava/ high neck scarf.
-Toilet kit (toothpaste,brush, soap,shampoo,Sun lotion SPF 50+,shaving foam,razor,detergent,
odomos, lip salve- all in small disposable pouches/satches).
-Underwears.
-Street wear incl woollens.
- Towels.
- Head scarf and handkerchiefs.
- Roll on stick/ deo spray.
- Cold cream.
*Camping and Survival Related:-
- High altitude dome/pup tents one per two/three riders. Do not carry cheap variety stuff as
it would be useless.
-Good quality sleeping bag.
-Mini stove that burns camphor.
-Messtin and steel mug with spoon.
*Food and Hydration Related:-
-Maggi atta noodles.
-Chikki, preferable honey laced.
-Ready to cook meals at least for two meals.
-Dates, dry fruits and nuts.
-Chocolates.
-Vegit Aloo mash powder.
-Milk powder.
- Tea bags/ coffee pouches.
- Water Haversack.
-Water purification tablets.
* First Aid and Medical Related:-
- Diamox (Acetazolamide)- helps in acclimatization. Start five to six days before D Day.
-Nasal decongestant.
-Avomine for dizziness, vomiting and motion sickness.
-Digene, eno and Rentadine for gastro issues.
-Eyes and ear drops.
-Crepe bandage.
- Surgical cotton and bandage gauze.
-Band aid.
-Burnol.
- Crocin/paracetamol.
- Vicks/strepsils.
-Coldact/Vicks 500.
- Betadine liquid.
-Candid B for anti fungal, anti bacterial and rahes.
- Muscle relaxant like relispray and alike.
CAUTION:- The list is never ending. The catch lies in deciding on the requirement and planning wisely. This list will help you plan by making sure that you do not miss out on essentials. A few items can be carried one per group while a few are individual specific. While one may not worry too much, it is important to plan well, leaving nothing to a chance.
ROUGH GUIDELINES : PLANNING THE RIDE
The start point is total time available and total time required to cover the distance. Rather than relating distance, it would be better to relate time to the plan. The average speed would vary from one road condition and traffic density to another but it would be safe to plan on a distance of 200-250 Km per day on reasonable well maintained roads and tracks. In harsher areas, the average may come down to 150 or less. Research and reading the experiences of other riders who have been on a particular strtech, therefore, will help. For every ten days of ride, keep a day as reserve.
Plan route to be taken and a rough alternative available. Riding in dark is not advocated. Camping equipment will come to help in such situations. Unless you are travelling in total wilderness of Changthang, camping equipment may actually be not required but then nothing can be legislated.
A rough budget of Rs 1000/- per day per bike (for solo riders) worked for us in 2008. It catered for fuel, food, stay and hydration. All along the route, starting at Manali, decent accommodation was available for Rs 250/- onwards, therefore costing Rs 125/- per head. Bikes, at an average of 250 Kms a day, consumed approx Rs 325/- worth of fuel (this would be split if two riders are sharing a bike), food (other than moments of indulgence at Leh and Manali) would cost Rs 150/- in a day. Water would eat up Rs 50/-per day and balance was for snacking and miscellaneous expenses and roll over. The equation remains unchanged even in 2009 as we take off for Zanskar. Number of days multiplied by 1000 and additional 25% of the total will be enough. There is, however, no upper limit. Remember, the initial expenses for spares, clothing, medicines and so on will be additional.
Take no chances with your health. Prevention remains the best cure..start taking Diamox well before you hit high altitude areas. Five days to a week will be adequate. Right dosage (twice a day) hold the key. Drink and release lots of water and keep munching even if you do not feel like. Consumption of garlic (capsules of garlic oil are available in the market) oil will help. And if at all you feel unwell, share your condition with others. Hide it and you may get too late. Life can be lost in one single night at those heights.
Riding in a group, especially where cellphone coverage is not available, needs some kind of fine tuning. All bikes must have functional rear view mirrors and horns. Having tried various methods, I feel that one practical way of riding smoothly as a group would involve briefing the group on the route before taking off in the morning. A halt must be planned every 45 mins to one hour as well as at places known for scenic beauty. The group must then start together and the leading baike must halt at the pre-decided place for a break. Others would fetch up and then the ride can resume. If one attempts to keep a group of 10 odd bikes together, it may not really work out. The rear bikes, two of them, must be nominated for the day. Common tools must travel on these bikes. The thumb rule would be that no rider must cross a leader nor any rider must lag behind the rear bikes. While negotiating a city, especially at the beginning of a day, the last biker must keep his headlight on. That would indicate the leader that group is intact. Such a drill will be required while negotiating big cities like Chandigarh, Simla, Jammu, Srinagar and so on. Group temprament as well as group plan will always take precedence over the individual riders.
blog by
ajay
thefirstthambi@gmail.com
9697501111(number may change)
Plan route to be taken and a rough alternative available. Riding in dark is not advocated. Camping equipment will come to help in such situations. Unless you are travelling in total wilderness of Changthang, camping equipment may actually be not required but then nothing can be legislated.
A rough budget of Rs 1000/- per day per bike (for solo riders) worked for us in 2008. It catered for fuel, food, stay and hydration. All along the route, starting at Manali, decent accommodation was available for Rs 250/- onwards, therefore costing Rs 125/- per head. Bikes, at an average of 250 Kms a day, consumed approx Rs 325/- worth of fuel (this would be split if two riders are sharing a bike), food (other than moments of indulgence at Leh and Manali) would cost Rs 150/- in a day. Water would eat up Rs 50/-per day and balance was for snacking and miscellaneous expenses and roll over. The equation remains unchanged even in 2009 as we take off for Zanskar. Number of days multiplied by 1000 and additional 25% of the total will be enough. There is, however, no upper limit. Remember, the initial expenses for spares, clothing, medicines and so on will be additional.
THE RIDE
Drive safely. Accidents, even minor but involving a rider's fingers, feet, eye, knee or a bikes vital organs would bring an abrupt end to the outing. Once away from live highways, problems associated with evacuation are enormous. The best approach would be to drive carefully. Next would be to dress up properly. Knee, elbow and knuckle protection is a must. Helmets take care of head and eyes. If proper branded riding gear is out of reach, modify the dress to add cushion at right places.Take no chances with your health. Prevention remains the best cure..start taking Diamox well before you hit high altitude areas. Five days to a week will be adequate. Right dosage (twice a day) hold the key. Drink and release lots of water and keep munching even if you do not feel like. Consumption of garlic (capsules of garlic oil are available in the market) oil will help. And if at all you feel unwell, share your condition with others. Hide it and you may get too late. Life can be lost in one single night at those heights.
Riding in a group, especially where cellphone coverage is not available, needs some kind of fine tuning. All bikes must have functional rear view mirrors and horns. Having tried various methods, I feel that one practical way of riding smoothly as a group would involve briefing the group on the route before taking off in the morning. A halt must be planned every 45 mins to one hour as well as at places known for scenic beauty. The group must then start together and the leading baike must halt at the pre-decided place for a break. Others would fetch up and then the ride can resume. If one attempts to keep a group of 10 odd bikes together, it may not really work out. The rear bikes, two of them, must be nominated for the day. Common tools must travel on these bikes. The thumb rule would be that no rider must cross a leader nor any rider must lag behind the rear bikes. While negotiating a city, especially at the beginning of a day, the last biker must keep his headlight on. That would indicate the leader that group is intact. Such a drill will be required while negotiating big cities like Chandigarh, Simla, Jammu, Srinagar and so on. Group temprament as well as group plan will always take precedence over the individual riders.
blog by
ajay
thefirstthambi@gmail.com
9697501111(number may change)
